Slip-lasted shoe sewing machines



Sept. 24, 1957 E. QUINN 2,807,224

SLIP-LASTED SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed July 29, 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inventor 500mm. Quinn 5 kid I 1' Sept. 24, 1957 E. QUINN SLIP-LASTED SHOE sswr uc. MACHINES 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed July 29, 1954 /0 6 z' Inventor" Edward Quinn i: 6 5 hZJAztarne I; mi 2 a shoe-of theslip-lasted or California type.

United States Patent 7 SILIP LASTED SHOE SEWING MACHINES Edward Quinn, 'Saugus, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flem'ington, N. J., a corpora- .tion of New Jersey Application July 29, 1954,.Se1rial No. 446,619

-8 Claims. '(Cl. '112-.36)

This invention relates to improvements in machines foroperatingonthe margins of relatively thin, flexible sheetmaterial of variable widthssuch as is employedin 'a platform cover or wrapper strip and other parts for As hereinafter described, the improvements are embodied. in a shoe sewing machine similar generallyto 'that disclosed in applications for United States Letters Patent Serial No.

353,997, filed May 11, 1953,"no'w Patent No. 2,742,005, granted April '17, 1956 in the name of the'present inventor and Serial No. 388,511, filed October '27, .1953, now Patent No. 2,722,182, granted November'l, 1955 in the namesof N. ShFerland and the' present inventor jointly.

in the machine of the prior patents .above'identified; a relatively thin, :unchanneled blank :of flexible woven :ma-

terial shaped to correspond with the sole of a shoe is brought into edge register with a flat upper blank cut to an arcuate pattern designed to form a shoe. The sole and upper blanks are flexed and caused to slide on each other as they are being pressed together to bring their edges into register by hand manipulation while being presented to the machine and, prior to the machine of the patents referred to, it was necessary in making a :platform shoe first tosew the sole and upper blanks and thereafter to attach a variable width platform cover strip of similar relatively thin flexible material with a second seam along their edges. The second seam, preferably, was not coincident with the first zone but was spaced inwardly from the edges further than the first one. second seam, accordingly, took a'wider margin of material beyond the seam than the first one and added little to the strength of the completed shoe. To avoid the necessity of inserting a-second scam in the machine of the priorpatents, the three parts, including the sole .and upper blanks and the platform cover strip, are attached by a single seam with their edges in accurate narrow-margin register. For this reason a gage is employed in that machine against which all of the edges of the partsare pressed firmly, the cover strip being guided automatically, so that full attention may be given by an operator to proper manual presentation of the sole and upper blanks to the machine. I

For leading a cover strip automatically into a seam connecting the sole and upper blanks of a platform shoe,

the machine of Patent No. 2,722,182 is provided witha -pilot having a 'strip engaging roll rotatably mounted on an axis inclined with respect to the direction of feeding movement imparted to the worlga directional force being applied to the strip as it is pulled toward the sewing point and forming an acute angle with respect to the direction of feed. Because of the angle there is a slight widthwise slippage of the strip along the pilot roll during feeding movement, causing some frictional resistance and imparting appreciable stretching force to the strip.

-During ordinary sewing operations the frictional resistance and stretching force arenot objectionable.

However, under some circumstances it is desirable to insert reinforcing stitches-over the edges of the parts crossed .by reversal of feeding movement in a sewing machine.

The

actions on the feeding devices of the machine.

the pilot roll wheneverthe feed is'reversed.

2,807,224 Patented Sept. 24, 1957 ice - in PatentvNo. 2,722,182, the cover strip becomes crumpled and the progress-of the reverse stitching-is' b1ocked,':the stiffness of the strip being insufiicient toproject it in a reverse directiongpast the pilot roll.

The objects of the present invention are to provide a machine for inserting a single seam in the parts of sliplasted shoes with effective reinforcement for the edges of the shoe parts, across which the seam connecting them passes, toenable the direction of Work feed in a platform cover strip sewing machine to be reversed conveniently without crumpling-t'he strip or blocking the reverse feeding movement when reinforcing stitches are insertedand in other respects to improvethe construction of a reinforced platform shoe sosewn.

The engagement of the parts of a platform shoealong an edge gage of a sewing machine and the-sliding movement of the parts along each other as they are pressed against each other during vsewing require substantial frictional resistance to be overcome, and result in undesirable .re- The feedingdevices in the machine .of the patents abovenoted, include .a relatively small gage straight eye-pointed needle. Frequently, resistance to feeding movement is sufiiciently great to flex the needle from its proper operatingposition or to render it defective and unfit for further use.

Under these conditions the stitches may be inserted inaccurately or time will be lost while a new needle is being introduced and adjusted inplace of a defective one.

A further object of the present invention is to reinforce the needle in the machine of thegp'rior patents, above identified against 'reactionof frictional resistance to feeding movement in a novel and improved manner. Other objects are to simplify and improve the construction of prior slip-lasted shoe operation machines and'to render their sewing'more adaptable'for use than heretofore with materials of widely varying characteristics.

In the sewing machine of the invention, a feeding mechanism is provided with a manually controlled 'leverfor selectively reversin'g't-he direction of work feed and "the lever is 'so'connected to'the cover strip pilotthat'the strip is released simultaneously from gripping engagement with In'this way the frictional resistance "on the strip offered "by the pilot is avoided and the-strip is enabled to pass freely-there- "through during insertion of the reverse stitching. No

corresponding difficulty is -met in bringing the edgesof the shoe parts into register, the section of the par-ts operated upon-being already stitched in proper edge-reg- 'ister.

A further feature ofthe invention'contributing to accuracy-of stitching both during the forward and reverse feeding movements of the shoe parts being sewn and which eliminates to a large extentexcessive fiex-ure of the needle in'the illustrated machine, resides in theuse of an-i-mproved feed dog moving with the needle and having a needle confining andfsuppor-ti-ng bore and aside outlet for the IO'OP'Df thread carried *bythe needle, the -outlet being of less 'Width than-the diameter of the bore to prevent escape of the needle. -By the useof 'theimproved feed-dog-the needle itself aids-in imparting accurate feedingmovemen ts to the shoe parts and is sufficientlyre'info rced to resist excessive'flexureunder conditions of both forward and reverse feed. 'Furt hermore, confinement of the needle within the hereof the feed dog insuresthat each loop 'thrownout-by'the needle wi'll bulge with certainty throughthe side outlet into a most favorable pos'itionfor entryby a co-operating loop taker and'reinforces the needle against undue'fl'ex ure whether the needle is actuated'tofeed the work or whether'its operating positionremains fixed While'the work -is-fed.

I point in the machine.

. sock lining. The cover These and other features of the invention, as hereinafter described and claimed, will be apparent from the following detailed specification, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation, partly broken away and in section of a post-type shoe sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a detail view in right side elevation of a feed direction control lever in the machine of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a sectional plan view on an enlarged scale taken along the line III-III of Fig. 4, of a feed dog employed in the machine, showing a needle confined within it;

Fig. 4 is a detail view in left side elevation on an enlarged scale of the feed dog;

Fig. 5 is a view in front elevation of the feed dog;

Fig. 6 is a sectional detail view in front elevation and on an enlarged scale showing the operation of the feed dog in opening up a needle loop for entry of the loop taker in the machine;

Fig. 7 is a view in left side elevation on a reduced scale of the machine shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 8 is a sectional plan view on an enlarged scale taken along the line VIII-VIII of Fig. 7, showing the parts surrounding the sewing point of the machine;

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of a cover strip guiding pilot employed in the machine, looking in the direction of the arrow of Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a detail view in left side elevation of parts surrounding the sewing point in the machine showing the operation of the feeding devices and pilot during reversal of the direction of work feed; and

Fig. 11 is a plan view of portions of a shoe showing reinforcing stitches insertedby the machine.

The apparatus illustrated in the drawings is a lockstitch sewing machine of the double clamp and feed type with a straight eye-pointed needle, and a post type work support adapted for operation upon the marginal portions of a slip-lasted shoe composed of flexible material cut to carefully designed patterns in flat blank form to provide a configuration of a shoe shape without the use of a last when the edges of the blank shoe parts are brought into registering relationship. During operation of the machine the parts are flexed by the operator progressively just in advance of the sewing point to bring their edges into register, and the areas along their margins are clamped about the point of needle operation.

Referring to Fig. 11 of the drawings the parts of the shoe intended to be operated upon by the machine include an upper blank 2, a sole or sock lining blank 4, and a two-piece cover strip, the heel piece of which is indicated at 6 and the forepart piece at 8.

In sewing a slip-lasted shoe constructed with a single seam connecting the upper, sock lining and cover strip, it is common practice to attach one cover strip piece, as for instance, the forepart piece 8, while sewing the toe portion of a shoe and then while entering the shank of the shoe to introduce the heel strip piece 6 to the sewing The sewing operation is then continued around the shoe until the last attached cover piece is brought into overlapping relationship with the cover piece first attached to the shoe. After sewing a shoe it is applied to a last and a platform sole is spotted on the pieces are wrapped around the edge of the platform sole to give the shoe an accurate configuration. After the cover pieces have been wrapped about the edge of the platform sole the greatest strain usually comes on those stitches of the connecting seam at the joints between the two cover pieces. For this reason it is desirable to reinforce the seam connecting the overlapping end edges of the cover pieces or elsewhere in the shoe construction by inserting coincident stitches. In Fig. 11 the stitches'of a connecting seam are illustrated at 10 and the local reinforcing stitches at 12, which stitches coincide with those previously inserted and ex- 4 i tend in opposite directions across the end edges of the cover pieces 6 and 8.

To enable the overlapping reinforcing stitches 12 to be inserted most conveniently with the best results the illustrated machine is equipped with a feed mechanism having a manually operated control level 14 (see Figs. 1 and 2) carrying a handle 16 arranged to be operated selectively to cause the shoe parts to be fed in a forward or reverse direction in a manner similar to the corresponding parts in the machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,671,421, granted March 9, 1954, on application of W. Heimann. By reason of the manner in which the reinforcing stitches are inserted it is unnecessary to remove the shoe from the machine or to trim any threads between the main and reinforcing portions of the seam. Thus, the sewing operation may be resumed directly after inserting the reinforcing stitches without loss of time and the edges of the shoe parts are united by a single continuous seam with three coincident portions, each reinforcement portion crossing the edges of the parts sewed.

For guiding the cover strip pieces 6 and 8 they are directed automatically into the sewing point of the machine by a strip pilot corresponding in construction and mode of operation to that disclosed in Patent No. 2,722,- 182. The pilot of the machine in that patent has a roll corresponding to that indicated at 18, rotatably mounted on a fixed axis 20 (see Fig. 10) inclined at an angle with respect to the direction of work feed to grip and to press the edges of the cover strip pieces widthwise into line with the stitch forming devices against an edge gage 22 (see Fig. 8) mounted on the frame of the machine directly opposite the sewing point.

To cause the pilot roll 18 to be efiective in gripping the wrapper strip, the strip is pressed against its periphery for approximately of arc and is drawn toward the sewing point by the feeding action of the machine. To press the strip against the pilot roll a second roll 24 is rotatably supported on a spring pressed carrier 26 mounted for pivotal movement toward and from the pilot roll on a pin 28 secured to a bracket 30. The bracket 30 also forms a mounting for the axis 20 of the pilot roll and is adjustably clamped to an angle plate 32 fixed to the forward side of a work support post 34 forming a part of the machine frame. As the stitch forming and work feeding devices of the machine operate, the shoe parts are manipulated and flexed to provide a general configuration of a shoe to bring their edges into register and the cover strip 6, 8 is led automatically against the edge gage 22 without attention on the part of the operator aside from initially presenting the edges of the pieces to the sewing point in the machine.

The stitch forming and feeding devices of the machine are the same as disclosed in the prior patents referred to. Briefly, these devices include the straight eye-pointed needle, indicated at 36, a looptaker in the form of a thread case carrying shuttle 38 mounted for rotation on a vertical shaft 40 carried by the work support post 34 (see Fig. 1). The needle 36 is secured to the lower end of a reciprocating needle bar 42 slidingly mounted in a carrier 44 movable in the direction of feed toward and away from the operator seated at the front of the machine. Co-operating with the needle in feeding the work is a feeding presser foot 46 having a vertical opening 48 (see Fig. 8) through which the needle passes. The feeding foot is secured to a bar 50 also slidingly mounted for vertical movement in the carrier 44. The feeding foot is mounted to engage the shoe parts in small areas surrounding the needle. The feeding foot also is actuated to clamp the parts against a work supporting feed dog 52, moving the clamped areas of the work with the feed dog and needle in the direction of feed while the needle is confined within a bore of the feed dog.

As has been stated, a feature of the invention includes the use of means connected with the cover strip pilot for (see Fig. '6) and the needle loop aroma Operation of the feed control lever is effected selectively by the operator from a forward feed'position, shown in full lines in Fig. 2, to the broken line position of that figure. For convenience in resuming normal forward stitching after reversal, so that sewing in the original direction maybe continued, the control lever is engaged byone end of a'spring 54 stretched between it and a fixed portion of the machine frame. When the control lever is released by the operator it quickly returns to its normal forward feed position.

The means for connecting the manually operated feed control lever 14tothecover strip pilot comprises a cam formed 'bya surface 55 (Fig. 2) on the upper end of an arm 56 provided at its 'lower'en'd witha split socket surrounding theshank of the handle 16 on the feed control lever. V Passing across the split in the socket is a clamp screw 58. When :the feed control lever is raised to reverse the direction of machine feed the cam at the upper end of the arm 56 engages a follower '60 formed on an arm integrally connected with a rock shaft 62 supported in bearings 64and 6 6 rigid with'the machine frame. Also secured to the rockshaft 62 is a downwardly extending finger '68 entering the hook of a hook-shaped fixture 70 secured to a bar 72 mounted on the pressing roll carrier 26. As thecam on the arm '56 engages the follower 60 the sha ft62 is rocked, swinging the finger 68 against the fixture 7t an'dactuating the carrier 26 to release the strip from gripping engagement with the'pilot roll 18 and the pressing roll 24. The positions of the parts when thus actuated are shown most clearly in Fig. 10. In these positions the cover strip is free to slide betweenthe rolls 18 and 24 in any direction so that during reverse feed of the machine no'restriction or limitation to movement occurs. As soon as'th'e feed controllever-is'returnedto its forward feeding position the cover strip is again gripped between the'pilot and pressing rolls to resume application of the e'fiective engagement of the .cover strip with the edge gage as .the sewing progresses.

The construction of a slip-lasted shoe depends in large degree for its uniformity of shapeand durability in use upon the integrity of the seam '10 which connects the cover strip with the upper 2. It is highly desirableto have the stitches of that seam uniformly spaced and set firmly with secure tensions in the thread. Each loop of thread carriedthrough the work by the needle must, therefore, be entered uniformly at the same time in each sewing cycle by'the beak, indicated at 74, of the shuttle must pass smoothly with out irregular tensions about the thread case supported in the shuttle in order to form uniformly set stitches. Furthermore, gripping engagement on the cover strip between the pilot and pressing rolls and manipulation of the upper and sock lining blanks by the operator necessarily exert relatively heavy forces while'turning them about the edge gage, producing frictional resistance to feeding movement, tending to displace the shoe parts from positions of proper presentation to the stitch forming and feeding devices, frequently to an excessive degree and applying aheavy flexing force to the .needle. Under some circumstances, therefore, it is extremely difficult to avoid overstraining the work feeding devices including the needle,'so that improper stitches are inserted or the needle itself is flexedbeyond its elastic limit and damaged beyond further use. I

Referring more particularly to Figs. 3 to '6, inclusive, the needle 36 of the illustrated machine is reinforced to the greatest possible extent while engaging the Work,

'through the provisionin the feed dog 52 of the needle confining bore, indicated at 76, of axial depth greater than the distance by which theneedle projects from the shoe .parts at the lower end of its reciprocating stroke The bore 76 enters the work-engaging surface of the feed dog "in alinementwith'theneedle and'fits'the diameter of .the

' needle within a few thousandths of'an inch, .providing only sufii'cient clearance :for smooth entryof the thread with the needle into the bore. At the upper workengaging end of the feed dog 52 the bore is of completely cylindrical form. Just above'the level of the shuttle beak 74 the bore is provided withasingle side outlet 78 (Fig. '3) facing the shuttle, extending lengthwise of'the bore and being formed by the intersection of an external flatface on the feed dog with one sideof the circular bore. The side outlet is of sufficient width only to allow the loop of thread carried by the needle to bulge and intersect the path of the shuttle beak 74, the side of the bore at the rear of the outlet pressing surplus thread through the needle eye and side outlet. The'width of the outlet 78 is less than the diametenof' the needleso that the needle cannot escape.

the 'machine, presenting-a still further difiiculty to de- 'pendable'-entry .of each needle loop by the shuttle. Thus,

the construction of the circular bore in the feed dogis of p'articular'advantage in the machine in which the direction of feed frequently is reversed.

As in 'the machines of the priorpatents, the work is clamped in aistationary position during back feed of the work feeding devices by the action of a nonfeeding and work clamping presserffoot80 secured to the lower end 'of .a nonfeeding presser'foot .bar 82, the bar 82 being slidingly mounted for vertical movement in the machine frame. The presser foot 80 engages the work in advance "only of the point of needle operation as the work moves along a solid portion of a work support 84 formed at its upper end with a feed dog receiving slot which acts to guide the upper 'end ofthe feed dog 52 and to provide means for still greater reinforcement for the feeding devices.

To insurethat the stitches inserted while the direction lof feed is reversed will coincide with those inserted while the feed is ina forward direction the movement of the feed 'control lever 16'is'adjusted to give the same'feeding movement to the shoe parts in either direction. To this end the control lever has its movements limited by a pair of slotted plates 86 (see Figs. 1 and '2) adjustably secured to the machine frame above .and below the feed rev'ersing lever. The slots in the plates have passing through them clamp screws 88, which when loosened permit' the desired adjustments to be made.

Certain features of the invention herein disclosed, form the subject matter of divisional applications as follows: Serial No. 594,244, filed June 27, 1956, relating to Methods of Sewing Slip-Lasted Shoes, and Serial No. 602158, filed August .6, 1956, relating to improvements in'Slip-Lasted Shoes.

widthwise into line with the stitch forming devices, a

pilot'comprising a rotatably mounted roll for directing an "edge cover str'ipiagainst the edge gage, means for causing thepiIot to grip the strip, and mechanism including a manually operated lever for controlling the feeding devices selectively to feed the shoe parts in a forward or reverse direction, in combination with connecting means between the manually operated feed control lever and the pilot to release the strip from gripping engagement of the pilot when the manually controlled lever is moved to reverse the direction of feed.

2. A sewing machine for uniting the registering edges of shoe sole and upper blanks, said machine having a work support and a presser foot for clamping the shoe parts, stitch forming and feeding devices including a needle acting on the shoe parts along the clamped areas, and edge gage against which the shoe parts are pressed widthwise into line with the stitch forming devices, a pilot comprising a rotatably mounted roll for directing an edge cover strip against the edge gage, means for causing the pilot to grip the strip and mechanism including a manually controlled lever for causing the feeding devices selectively to feed the shoe parts in a forward or reverse direction, in combination with connections between the manually controlled lever and the pilot comprising a cam secured to the manually controlled lever and a cam follower connected to the pilot for releasing the strip from gripping engagement with the roll when the manually controlled lever is moved to a reverse feed position.

3. A sewing machine for uniting the registering edges of shoe sole and upper blanks, said machine having a work support and a presser foot for clamping the shoe parts, stitch forming and feeding devices including a needle acting on the shoe parts along the clamped areas, an edge gage against which the shoe parts are pressed widthwise into line with the stitch forming devices, a pilot comprising a rotatably mounted roll for directing an edge cover strip against the edge gage, a second roll for pressing the strip against the pilot to cause the pilot to grip the strip and mechanism including a manually operated control lever for actuating the feed devices selectively to feed the shoe parts in a forward or reverse direction, in combination with connections between the manually operated lever and the pressing roll to release the strip from gripping engagement with the pilot when the manually controlled lever is moved to reverse the direction of feed.

4. A sewing machine for uniting the registering edges of shoe sole and upper blanks, said machine having a work support and a presser foot for clamping the shoe blanks, stitch forming and feeding devices including a straight eye-pointed needle acting on the shoe blanks along the clamped areas, an edge gage against which the shoe blanks are pressed widthwise into line with the stitch forming devices, a pilot for directing an edge cover strip against the edge gage and a loop taker acting to enter each loop of thread carried through the work by the needle, in combination with a feed dog for reinforcing the needle, having a needle confining bore entering its work-engaging surface and a side outlet for the loop of thread carried by the needle of less width than the diameter of the needle.

5. Asewing machine for uniting the registering edges of shoe sole and upper blanks, said machine having a Work support and a presser foot for clamping the shoe parts, stitch forming and feeding devices including a straight Work feeding eye-pointed needle acting on the shoe parts along the clamped areas, an edge gage against which the shoe parts are pressed widthwise into line with the stitch forming devices, a pilot for directing an edge cover strip against the edge gage and a loop taker acting to enter each loop of thread carried through the work by the needle, in combination with a feed dog for reinforcing the needle in feeding the shoe parts, saidfeed dog having a needle confining bore entering its work-engaging surface to a greater axial depth than the distance by which the needle projects from the shoe parts and a side outlet for the loop of thread carried by the needle of less width than the diameter of the needle.

6. A sewing machine for uniting the registering edges of shoe sole and upper blanks, said machine having a work support and a presser foot for clamping the shoe parts, stitch forming and feeding devices including a straight Work feeding eye-pointed needle acting on the shoe pa-rts' along the clamped areas, an edge gage against which the shoe parts are pressed widthwise into line with the stitch forming devices, a pilot for directing an edge cover strip against the edge gage and a loop taker acting to enter each loop of thread carried through the work by the needle, in combination with a feed dog for reinforcing the needle in feeding the shoe parts and having a needle confining bore entering its work-engaging surface to a greater axial depth than the distance by which the needle projects from the shoe parts and a side outlet for the loop of thread carried by the needle of less width than the diameter of the needle, said side outlet facing the loop taker and being formed by the intersection of an external face on the feed dog with one side of the bore.

7. A sewing machine for uniting the registering edges of shoe sole and upper blanks, said machine having a work support and a presser foot for clamping the shoe parts, stitch forming and feeding devices including a straight work feeding eye-pointed needle acting on the shoe parts along the clamped areas, an edge gage against which the shoe parts are pressed widthwise into line with the stitch forming devices, a pilot for directing an edge cover strip against the edge gage and a loop taker acting to enter each loop of thread carried through the work by the needle, in combination with a feed dog for reinforcing the needle in feeding the shoe parts and having a needle confining bore entering its work-engaging surface to a greater axial depth than the distance by which the needle projects from the shoe parts and a side outlet for the loop of thread carried bythe needle of less width than the diameter of the needle, and a work feeding foot mounted to engage the shoe parts in an area surrounding the needle width, and actuated to clamp the parts against the feed dog and moving with the feed dog and needle in the direction of feed while the needle is confined within the bore of the feed dog.

8. A sho'e machine for uniting the registering edges of shoe blanks having means for clamping the blanks, stitch forming and work feeding devices, including a straight eye-pointed needle acting along the clamped areas of the blanks, a loop taker and an edge gage against which the blanks are turned and pressed widthwise into line with the stitch forming devices while being presented to the machine in a manner to apply a flexing force to the needle, in combination with a needle engaging member mounted in the machine for reinforcing the needle, having a circular needle confining bore located in alinement with the needle and arranged to be entered by the needle and a single side outlet extending lengthwise of the bore for clearing the loop of thread carried by the needle, said side outlet being of less width than the diameter of the needle and facing the loop taker to enable entry of the loop taker into a loop bulging through the side outlet.

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